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EASE PLACEMENT REPORT

LATVIA 2005

ALAN DALTON

We arrived at Riga airport on the afternoon of Monday 4 July and were met at the airport by Anda Vilka, who would be taking care of us during our six weeks. The weather was extremely hot, something that would be a feature of our first two weeks in Latvia. We were taken by minibus to the town of Cesis and we met up with three Swedish students en route who would also be excavating at the medieval castle.

When we arrived in Cesis we were taken to our home for the next six weeks, the Putninkrogs hotel, while the decor was uninspiring, the hotel catered for all our needs and would eventually become a genuine home from home. For our first evening in Cesis, Anda took us to a restaurant that overlooked a pleasant park with a pond and water fountain.

For our first full day in Cesis we were taken on a tour of the historical sites of Cesis by a tour guide, dressed in period costume. We were shown around the old town, the first thought that struck me was the sense of decay in the various buildings in the old town, the buildings were architecturally impressive but some had clearly been severely neglected. Perhaps this is a combination of the political and economic turmoil in the recent history of this ancient town and also the harsh winters. We were also taken into the church that dominates the skyline of Cesis, St. John’s Church.  The austere exterior typifies the Lutheran churches in this area, this church was once the most important church for the Livonian Order and many knights and priests of the Order are buried there. We went up into the bell tower, which offered superb views of the town and the Gauja National Park in which Cesis is situated.

In the afternoon on our second day we were taken to the site of our excavations, the medieval Cesis Castle. We met Zigrida Apala, the director of the excavation and she gave us a brief history of the castle and details of previous excavations, we would be excavating in the cellar area of the West Block. The castle was once the headquarters of the Livonian Order, a branch of the Teutonic Knights and suffered heavy damage during the Livonian War in 1577 at the hands of Ivan the Terrible. This is when the ceiling collapsed, killing people inside; human skeletons had been found in previous years in the cellar which bear testament to this event. We were then shown around the museum which has an impressive collection of artefacts from the pre-historic through to modern times and also had many artefacts discovered during excavations at the castle on display.

On our third day we were taken to Araisi Ezerpils, the reconstructed lake fortress settlement which last years EASE participants helped to maintain. Janis Apals, responsible for the excavations and the reconstruction of the settlement gave us a history of the site and the reconstruction. His talk on the methods of reconstruction was particularly interesting with regards to how much was based on archaeological evidence, trial and error and educated guesswork.

We began excavating our site on the afternoon of our third day and were introduced to Maris Zunde, a dendrochronologist, who would be supervising our excavation. The rest of the week would be spent excavating in the cellar of the West Block and the area above the cellar where sections of building were still extant. During this first week a cannonball was discovered, several pieces of metal – possibly segments of armour, Alex (one of my fellow English students) found a piece of decorated bone which bore a human head with angels wings behind the head and I found several pieces of an armour gauntlet. We were all initially surprised by the sheer quantity of animal bone we were finding, and it soon became obvious to us why these were never recorded, during the subsequent weeks we filled several shoe boxes with bone every day!

Our first weekend was reasonably quiet; we went to Erglu (Eagle) Cliff, an impressive sandstone cliff cut by the Gauja River. While we were there a wedding party arrived to be photographed by the cliff (apparently it is a custom for the bride and groom to be photographed at the various landmarks in the area).

The second week was our first full week of digging; it was nice to be able to get into a regular work routine but the heat made it extremely uncomfortable at times. The locals commented on how unusual it was for it to be so hot for such a long period, apparently the summer in Latvia is usually reasonably similar to the UK. During our second week, Edward and I dug sondage pits to determine how deep the cultural layer was and to establish how far down we would need to go to reach the natural layer. Two other English students, Dan and Matt, excavated an impressive section of armour breastplate, Nina and Magdalena (Swedish students) found a griffin carved on a circular piece of bone and a pistol respectively. A cobbled floor surface was revealed in the area above the cellar as well as a wall of dressed stone. I also helped Maris with the recording of artefacts and measuring the walls using ranging poles, scales and a total station. This was something all of the students did on several occasions during the six weeks and it was an excellent opportunity to be involved in other aspects of archaeology other than digging.

During the second week we also went to Araisi where we were the guests at a barbecue arranged by our hosts. It was a wonderful evening with traditional Latvian songs being sung and it provided us with our first insight into the warmth and hospitality of our hosts. We were given further evidence of this at the weekend when we went back to Araisi for another barbecue followed by a sauna. The sauna was an experience not to be missed and was a superb example of a traditional Baltic/Scandinavian sauna, being able to swim in Lake Araisi at the same time made for an unforgettable evening.

During week three the weather eventually started to change, it became cooler and more comfortable, it even rained at one point and it was interesting to see how the site looked after heavy rain. The rain certainly made it easier to show up the burnt layer underlying all the building rubble and overlying the natural blue/grey clay but made it a lot harder to spot coins, nails and small bones in the mud. Jessica found a silver coin, other lower grade coins were found, also found were arrowheads and pieces of armour. Curiously, three finds of gold thread were found in three different locations all on the same day. We were also taken on a tour of various archaeological sites in the area. We saw the Ungurmuizas Manor House, the oldest surviving wooden house in Latvia, dating to the 18th century. This building has some superb interior decoration still surviving. There are plans to reconstruct the house which hopefully will not spoil the character, intimacy and poignancy of the house and its wall paintings. We also saw the remains of Valmiera and Raunas Castles, the cellar of the former the victim of some openly admitted poor conservation and the latter undergoing conservation work at the time of us seeing it.

During the third week we were given a demonstration by the local smith, Daumants Kalnins, responsible for creating copies of metal artefacts and jewellery based upon actual finds. Daumants was extremely friendly and enthusiastic as well as being highly skilled. He let us all have a go at hammering a piece of hot metal and we minted our own coins which we kept as souvenirs. The weekend saw another barbecue and sauna at Araisi as well as a medieval festival in Cesis which was dampened slightly by the rain. It was nevertheless a colourful experience with people dressed in medieval costume and demonstrations of games, crafts, fighting, archery and punishment! We also went to Riga and spent the day exploring the old town with its fabulous Art Nouveau architecture as well as some controversial reconstructions, such as the House of Blackheads. I found the War Museum in the Powder Tower very moving and saddening, as was the Museum of Occupation, although I had slight misgivings about the undercurrent of polemics tangible in the Museum of Occupation although it is entirely understandable why this exists.

Week four was the most productive week in terms of finds, Jessica found a horse skull and a tankard, Alex found a brooch that predates the stone castle and a necklace, Primrose found a pieces of leg armour, I found a piece of chain mail and a large stone was removed and it was discovered that it had a fine carving of a flower on it, rather like a Tudor rose. It was also during this week that I found a hoard of over 40 coins, almost all of them silver, including a very rare square coin, similar to a klippe found at the castle during a previous excavation. These coins had been minted in Riga and I discovered them in the southern section of the cellar; the discovery caused great excitement on the site. The next day a film crew from French TV channel TF1 filmed us as we were excavating and Edward was interviewed by them!

On this weekend we went to the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum, the home of an impressive collection of wooden buildings rescued from various areas of the country and rebuilt in this area of woodland just outside Riga. Among the many buildings were windmills, barns, houses and the oldest surviving wooden church.

By the fifth week we had removed almost the entire rubble layer and were down onto the burnt layer. Very few finds were forthcoming once we reached the burnt layer, mainly animal bones, so attention was turned to other areas of the site. Dan and Matt dug a test pit outside the western curtain wall of the West Block to try and find if a stone shaft discovered in the cellar led to the outside. It did and there is a possibility that this may have been for the disposal of refuse as the soil was organically very rich with a large quantity of animal bone in this area of the cellar. Alex and I extended the trench in the area above the cellar in order to see if a wall extended southwards. Further excavation also revealed a cobbled floor extended southwards as well. We also spent a day at Araisi during week five to do conservation work at the ruined castle in preparation for the German festival scheduled for the weekend. Some of the students had to move lots of logs and others had to clear away weeds and long grass to make some of the ruins more visible to the public.

On this weekend we went to Vilnius in Lithuania by bus to experience another Baltic country. We stayed overnight in Vilnius, the town was a lot quieter than Riga and with less tourists. There were some lovely churches and buildings in the old town and there was a nice friendly party atmosphere at night. The next day in Vilnius saw pouring rain, some of our group decided to head off on an overnight bus to Tallinn in Estonia while others (including me) decided to head back to Latvia to see the German festival at Araisi. Sadly we had to catch a later bus than we wanted and missed the festival which, in any case was badly disrupted by the appalling weather.

Unfortunately, our last week was badly affected by the weather. It rained for almost the entire week and we lost a lot of digging time. The cold mud was in stark contrast to the extreme heat at the beginning of the dig. The week was enlivened by a photographer from the local newspaper taking our photograph as we stood in the cellar. We were all presented with copies of this paper at the end of the week. Alex and Dan opened up a new trench above the cellar area in order to find the staircase leading down into the cellar. Some building structure was discovered and it seemed likely that this was indeed the staircase although we would not be able to excavate this ourselves.

Our last day of digging was finished off with a lovely party arranged by our hosts at the museum. It was a very special evening in which we all let our hair down and had a really good time with our hosts, who by now had also become our friends. We hoped to arrange a return party for them by hiring a raft to go on the Gauja River with a barbecue on board but the weekend weather was not good and so we were prevented from doing this. The weekend was concluded by a fireworks display at the castle following an open air opera.

The last day, Monday 15 August was a day of mixed emotions. We were all glad to be heading back home but we were also very sad to be saying goodbye to our friends. We spent the morning taking one last look at the site and saying goodbye and taking photographs of all the people involved on the dig.

I learned an enormous amount during my six weeks and it was an invaluable experience for me. It was interesting to compare Latvian methods with British methods. The health and safety regulations are a lot more rigorous in the UK; at times we were surprised by how untroubled the Latvian archaeologists were by this. Likewise, they were surprised at some of the equipment we had, such as protective boots and waterproof trousers and were taken aback at our refusal to stop working when it was raining. The methods of recording in Latvia seemed to be very accurate but also seemed to be less meticulous than in the UK. It clearly did not detract from their ability to understand the site and it was refreshing to be able to work with such freedom. I think we could and should learn a lot from each other. The experience will be invaluable for my future career in archaeology and I gained so much experience in excavating types of artefacts that one would probably never encounter in a whole lifetime at sites in the UK. The reconstructions and conservation that take place in Latvia are in some instances very good and sympathetic (the latest reconstruction work at Cesis Castle and Raunas Castle, for example), but in some cases have been poorly done (some sections of Cesis Castle and Valmiera Castle); this is readily admitted by Latvian archaeologists. Some seem to be very bold in their use of new materials and this seems slightly unusual to the eyes of British archaeologists. Sigulda Castle is an obvious example with reconstructions in vivid red brickwork and a near total reconstruction of the castle. This is not unique to Latvia; Trakai Castle in Lithuania is very similar to Sigulda in this respect. It seems to reflect the patriotism of these Baltic States and the desire to make elements of their history which they are proud of to be as impressive as possible. For this they cannot be criticized.

I think the last words of this report should go to the people who worked with us and who helped us in Latvia. The people involved in the entire project were like one close family. They made us feel so much at home and made our experience in Latvia so much more worthwhile. On social occasions they treated us with a genuine warmth and friendliness that was, in all honesty, humbling. We have so many people to thank, Zigrida, Janis, Maris, Aina and the Latvian diggers. But most of all we have Anda to thank, she is an extremely busy person but she always took the trouble to help us in every possible way. We also have he Swedish students to thank as well, we learned so much about each others culture as well as Latvian culture. We all felt part of one large group, sadly the Swedish students were only on placements lasting two weeks and it was with genuine sadness that we had to say goodbye to them during our six weeks. Of course, the greatest sadness was saying goodbye to all the people in Cesis who made us a part of their family. I would not hesitate in accepting an opportunity to return to Latvia, it has been an enormously enjoyable experience.

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