EASE MAGDEBURG EXCAVATIONS
KIRK TAYLOR GRAMPUS TRAINEE
This was my first experience of practical archaeological work,
and so the whole six weeks was a continual learning curve, and the best way
to describe this is to go through the major excavations which I participated
in, and what I gained from each one.
I worked mainly on two sites around Das Kloster Unser Lieben Frauen (The Monastery Of Our Lady), and one site next to (and with a glorious view of) the cathedral. After induction I was immediately thrown into the thick of things as part of a team of three digging and enlarging site KULF FL2 S4 S trowelling for finds as I did so. Whilst primarily learning different digging methods (such as layering and when to dig carefully or to just "go for it") I picked up incidental information like the need for 3 grams of charcoal for dating, or what a preserved fish scale actually looks like. We also found evidence of an oven, red clay being evidence of intense heat. This may sound obvious, but the difference between actually seeing this and reading about it is immense. We readied the site for photography, during which I learnt much about cleaning (meaning as I discovered hard scraping to clarify features, not just clearing dirt away), such as the importance of right angles, using brushes for stone, and keeping the tools themselves clean. I observed the photographs (2 colour, 2 black and white, one digital) being taken, noting the correct use of compass to place the red pointer north, and water and shade to further highlight features.
The next stage and new skills garnered involved plotting the site on a scale of 20: 1. This was a two person job, and involved fixing a zero point using Pythagoras to ascertain a right angle, and accurate measuring of the site (the two of us switched positions occasionally, to get experience of both measuring, and drawing). We then coloured in the result which is a good example of how much this really is a learning experience: the background is much too dark, and the whole much too vivid. As I shall demonstrate, later improvements will be obvious. Each feature was then identified (for example, the burnt clay was feature number 1086), and finally the height of the site was recorded, using a leveller to calculate various points against a fixed point on the monastery wall.
To summarise then, my first practical dig enabled me to gain experience of digging, trowelling, cleaning; photography; plottingcolouring, identifying features; and levelling. All these skills were used, and (hopefully) improved during the next cycle of digging to a second plane 10cm deeper down. During the second phase heavy rain halted proceedings, but this enabled me to have my first attempt at washing, sorting, and marking finds. When we resumed, and concluded the second phase (due to the delay, only up to the plotting stage), we appeared to discover the top of a grave. I shall return to this later, but for now it was time to rotate sites.
On my second, much larger site (KULF FL1) I was set straight to work clearing flagstones using shovel, trowel and brush to expose the outlines. This felt almost like my first exposure to "rescue" archaeology, as the flagstones were being demolished the next day. I cleared the stones for the photograph, and observed how when time is short only a few points are taken for plotting, and extrapolated upon. I was then asked to excavate and clean a large plane and profile first shovelling and working with progressively smaller tools to highlight the features. I could certainly feel the improvement in the skills which I had first utilised on my earlier site feeling more like a part of the team than just a student. These improvements also extended to my use of the leveller to find a zero line for plotting (which I was gratified to see the plumb line verified as being horizontal), and can be clearly seen in my second attempt at plotting and colouring of the wall: not perfect, but much more subtle this time. On the larger site I also got the vital and eye opening lesson of how extremely physically demanding archaeology can be! However, before my hands could become too calloused, it was time to rotate sites again.
On my third site (DOMPLATZ IB), after assisting in digging, I was left to myself to clean, draw, and level two walls. I think the improvements from my first attempt are obvious to see, but I also felt these improvements in all the skills that I used here.
I mentioned the discovery of the top of a grave at my first site, and when I returned here the skeleton was practically exposed. I did however get the chance to uncover its feet, carefully using the leaf trowel for the first time. I was then privileged to completely excavate and bag the bones, using the leaf trowel and small brush. The main lesson here was to be EXTREMELY careful I managed just to break two bones, but the experience of handling these delicate bones cannot be overemphasised. This was the last major part of my excavation, but interspaced with all of the above were many other tasks which used and improved all the skills that I have described. I certainly feel like I have learnt a huge amount in my first excavation, but also learnt how much I still need to work and improve in all areas. However, this has been an excellent start.
Away from purely practical experience, I also benifited from my cultural surroundings. As a group we mixed well with the resident archaeologists, (trying to pick up at least a smattering of German) from whom we learnt much of Magdeburg's and Germany's history. This was complemented by a visit to the local museum, which fortunately had a special "story of Magdeburg" exhibition in recognition of this being the 1200th anniversary of the city's foundation. The local team also organised tours around the monastery and cathedral. During the latter tour we were fortunate enough to be granted access to the usually closed cathedral towers, getting close looks at original architecture and the bells, and a fantastic panoramic view of the city. On a less cultural note the team also held a great barbeque for us, at which we got to chat with them at a more informal level.
I also took a weekend trip to Berlin where I visited many historic attractions. These included the Checkpoint Charlie museum (especially interesting as Magdeburg was on the east side of the Iron Curtain); Brandeburg Tor; the Reichstagg, the Berlin Wall; the memorial for Jews; Gendarmenmarkt; and Alexanderplatz, as well as strolls down Friedrichstrasse and Unter Den Linden. We were extremely fortunate in being in Berlin for the "night of the long museums", giving us the opportunity for a nocturnal visit to the Alte museum and a midnight organ recital in the Nikolaikirche. It was a fantastic weekend, and I certainly learned a lot of Germany's 20th century history some appalling, some inspiring, all fascinating. On top of all this, I located and enjoyed the hospitality of an authentic absinth bar!
Mentioning alcohol, of course we met many locals on a purely conversational level at drinking establishments in Magdeburg, which I think qualifies as valid cultural acclimatisation. The culmination of this was on our final night, when we attended an amazing authentic beer festival complete with 1L beer glasses, local cuisine, and a leiderhose clad oomh pah band. German (or at least Bayern) culture and entertainment combined ... brilliant!
Before closing I would like to thank Grampus for giving me this great opportunity, and personal thanks to Frank Beseur (our chief technician and advisor), and Dr. Andrea Pieper (our site chief), and the local technicians Marcus, Jurgens, Werner, and Bettina. All of these people welcomed us on to their site, helped us when needed, and, above all, made us feel part of the team. Indeed, when we said thank you to them at the conclusion of the placement, Frank said that they were equally thankful to us for the help we had given them, which was extremely gratifying to hear.
Overall then, I can't overemphasise how useful my time in Magdeburg has been on many different levels. Obviously, primarily the practical experience has been invaluable. The opportunity to meet not only practising archaeologists, but also fellow students has been extremely enjoyable as well as educational. Beyond seeing where I need to personally improve, I have also learnt how to work as part of an archaeological team, the language barrier being an obstacle, but also part of my whole learning curve. All of these new skills will, I am certain, enhance my career prospects in the future. For now though, my studies continue, but part of those studies will, I hope, be another illuminating Grampus experience.